-Bageshwar Jha
In course of our continuing campaign for collecting toilet related artefacts for the Sulabh International Museum of Toilets, we were in the Bhangarh Fort on Jan.23, 2016. Bhangarh, at a distance of 235 KM from Delhi, is located in Alwar district of Rajasthan. It is constructedquite in accordance with the established fort architecture of the period in the foothills of the Aravali range of hills. If you try to find out the names of haunted palaces and forts of the world, you are bound to come across the Bhangarh Fort which has created a great attraction for the tourists, indigenous or foreigners. In the beginning itself, the tourists are told that the premises remain open only from the sunrise to the sunset because once it is dark, the spirits haunt the area and something strange may happen with the one who ignored this limit.
Though the internet shows it built in the 17th century, the Archaeological Survey of India puts its date in the second half of the 16th century. According to the ASI records, the fort was built by Raja Bhagwant Das, the then ruler of Amber (Jaipur) and later on it was made capital of Madho Singh, brother of Raja Man Singh (July 15, 1611 – Aug.28, 1667). Madho Singh was diwan in the court of Mughal Emperor Akbar (1556 -1605).
The remains at Bhangarh consist of fort walls, gateways, markets, Chhatris, tombs, havelis, temples, and royal palace. As a matter of fact, the construction had three layers of peripheral walls for security reasons. Being devout Hindus, they had built temples, dedicated to Hanuman, Gopinath, Somesvara, Keshav Rai and Mangla Devi, all in Nagar style of temple architecture. The Gopinath Temple, just near the main gate, stands still erect and due to conservation work done by the ASI is in quite good healt. The wear and tear of over 400 years are not visible. However, this sacred place is not receiving devouts and the regular worship rituals are also not conducted also because of the mystery, no pujari has courage to stay there particularly after it is dark.
The outer periphery of the fort complex has four gates, named as Lahori Gate, Ajmeri Gate, Phulbari Gate and Delhi Gate. The royal palace, known as diwan-e- khas of the Mughals, was in seven storeys of which only four ar still extant. The whole construction is mainly of stone and partly bricks. Marble has been rarely used on floors and door linings. The toilet is a hole in the wall in a corner room through which faeces fell outside. The same room, like in modern flats, had bathing space also in the other corner. We could see a small water tank on that level in the middle, having mechanism for rain-water harvesting.
About the fort being a haunted place, known to the locals as “bhoot bangla”, there are two stories. According to the first story, a sage named Baba Balanath lived in that area. When the fort was under construction, he warned that no building should be taller than his so that no shadow fell on his temple. If it was not taken care of, he thundered, the whole complex would be ruined. His warning was ignored and as a result the worst happened.
The second story is about a wizard also called a ‘tantrik’ whose small temple atop the northern hill, overlooking the fort palce is still there. The story is that he had a crush for the princess named Ratnavali. She was so beautiful that many princely suitors were proposing. It was a one-sided love as the princes had no attraction for the tantric. The princes, at that time 17, came out for shopping. As a matter of fact, from the entrance to the palace door, the one-KM long road had houses on both sides for shops, armym and the people giving other professional services including the courtesans. In one of the shops, when she was purchasing ‘itr’ (perfume), the tantric who was watching her, came there and offered a special potion taking which she would lose control on herself and start liking him. The princess, intelligent as she was, got a hint of the mischief. She threw the small container having the mystery liquid and on a big round boulder lying aside. The buolder started moving fastly and hit the tantric. While dying, he gave a curse that the entire fort will be ruined. Sometimes later, the Mughal army attacked from the northern side and vandalized the fort. Since then, both of them who could not meet while alive, are wandering in the campus of the desolate fort.
In course of our continuing campaign for collecting toilet related artefacts for the Sulabh International Museum of Toilets, we were in the Bhangarh Fort on Jan.23, 2016. Bhangarh, at a distance of 235 KM from Delhi, is located in Alwar district of Rajasthan. It is constructedquite in accordance with the established fort architecture of the period in the foothills of the Aravali range of hills. If you try to find out the names of haunted palaces and forts of the world, you are bound to come across the Bhangarh Fort which has created a great attraction for the tourists, indigenous or foreigners. In the beginning itself, the tourists are told that the premises remain open only from the sunrise to the sunset because once it is dark, the spirits haunt the area and something strange may happen with the one who ignored this limit.
Though the internet shows it built in the 17th century, the Archaeological Survey of India puts its date in the second half of the 16th century. According to the ASI records, the fort was built by Raja Bhagwant Das, the then ruler of Amber (Jaipur) and later on it was made capital of Madho Singh, brother of Raja Man Singh (July 15, 1611 – Aug.28, 1667). Madho Singh was diwan in the court of Mughal Emperor Akbar (1556 -1605).
The remains at Bhangarh consist of fort walls, gateways, markets, Chhatris, tombs, havelis, temples, and royal palace. As a matter of fact, the construction had three layers of peripheral walls for security reasons. Being devout Hindus, they had built temples, dedicated to Hanuman, Gopinath, Somesvara, Keshav Rai and Mangla Devi, all in Nagar style of temple architecture. The Gopinath Temple, just near the main gate, stands still erect and due to conservation work done by the ASI is in quite good healt. The wear and tear of over 400 years are not visible. However, this sacred place is not receiving devouts and the regular worship rituals are also not conducted also because of the mystery, no pujari has courage to stay there particularly after it is dark.
The outer periphery of the fort complex has four gates, named as Lahori Gate, Ajmeri Gate, Phulbari Gate and Delhi Gate. The royal palace, known as diwan-e- khas of the Mughals, was in seven storeys of which only four ar still extant. The whole construction is mainly of stone and partly bricks. Marble has been rarely used on floors and door linings. The toilet is a hole in the wall in a corner room through which faeces fell outside. The same room, like in modern flats, had bathing space also in the other corner. We could see a small water tank on that level in the middle, having mechanism for rain-water harvesting.
About the fort being a haunted place, known to the locals as “bhoot bangla”, there are two stories. According to the first story, a sage named Baba Balanath lived in that area. When the fort was under construction, he warned that no building should be taller than his so that no shadow fell on his temple. If it was not taken care of, he thundered, the whole complex would be ruined. His warning was ignored and as a result the worst happened.
The second story is about a wizard also called a ‘tantrik’ whose small temple atop the northern hill, overlooking the fort palce is still there. The story is that he had a crush for the princess named Ratnavali. She was so beautiful that many princely suitors were proposing. It was a one-sided love as the princes had no attraction for the tantric. The princes, at that time 17, came out for shopping. As a matter of fact, from the entrance to the palace door, the one-KM long road had houses on both sides for shops, armym and the people giving other professional services including the courtesans. In one of the shops, when she was purchasing ‘itr’ (perfume), the tantric who was watching her, came there and offered a special potion taking which she would lose control on herself and start liking him. The princess, intelligent as she was, got a hint of the mischief. She threw the small container having the mystery liquid and on a big round boulder lying aside. The buolder started moving fastly and hit the tantric. While dying, he gave a curse that the entire fort will be ruined. Sometimes later, the Mughal army attacked from the northern side and vandalized the fort. Since then, both of them who could not meet while alive, are wandering in the campus of the desolate fort.